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Sailing with Delphinus

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Martinique and Dominica

02 Sunday Apr 2017

Posted by krdavenport in Uncategorized

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

Delphinus, Dominica, Martinique, Sailing

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We have been very busy since my last post taking full advantage of what Martinique and Dominica have to offer. They are two very different islands, but equally beautiful. Martinique, a French Department, is very developed and has all the modern conveniences. Dominica is an independent island nation and works very hard to preserve the natural beauty and resources. More on each later.

Martinique

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We arrived in St. Anne, Martinique just in time for their Carnaval, which is a week of themed parades and celebrations leading up to Ash Wednesday and the beginning of Lent. We caught up with friends we met in Grenada – Carl & Carrie on s/v Brilliant and Mark & Kathy on s/v Nancy Lu.

St. Anne is a quaint little town with narrow one-way streets. The parades were all relatively short, with musicians and dancers outfitted with that day’s theme. When the end of parade passed the town square the revelers joined in to dance their way down the street.

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After Carnaval, we moved to nearby Le Marin – a very large anchorage and marina complex – in preparation for our daughter Colleen’s visit. Brendan and his girlfriend Alex arrived the day that Colleen left. For each of their visits we rented a car and spent the first few days exploring the interior of the island and a few more days exploring by boat. Unfortunately during Colleen’s visit we had less than ideal weather – high winds and rain – which made for wet dinghy rides and limited where we could go on Delphinus.

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Lunch before the distillery tour

We took the kids to the Clemente rhum distillery. In addition to creating a wide variety of rums, they have planted beautiful gardens and installed contemporary sculptures throughout the grounds. It made for a nice stroll around the grounds before making it to the tasting room.

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Next on our driving tour was St. Pierre, the original capital of Martinique. The town sits at the base of Mt. Pelee which erupted in 1902 destroying the entire town and killing everyone in it. Today it is another quaint seaside town. They have preserved what is left of the theater and jail and rebuilt around them. The local beach is made up of black sand from the volcanic rock.

Theater Ruins
Theater Ruins
Mount Pelee
Mount Pelee
Brendan & Alex
Brendan & Alex

From the town we drove to the observation area near the top of Mt. Pelee. The day we were there with Colleen a cloud covered the observation area and completely obscured the view all around. When we were there the next week with Brendan and Alex it was a beautiful clear day. What a difference!

In the clouds
In the clouds
On a clear day
On a clear day

After turning in the rental car we moved Delphinus back to St. Anne to continue to explore. On a walk we happened upon a cemetery at the top of the hill overlooking the harbour. The family crypts are very ornate and the view is spectacular. We also stopped at this tree house like bar for a quick cold one before heading back to the dinghy dock.

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Pete, Colleen and I took a hike to Grand Anse d’Salines. Another sailor suggested the hike and described where to start and that we would be able to have lunch at the other end. It had rained quite heavily the night before and trail was very muddy, slowing us down as we kept trying to scrape the accumulation of mud and muck from our shoes. The lunch at the other end was definately worth it.

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While Brendan & Alex were with us we were able to take Delphinus to Grande Anse d’Arlet bay, which has a nice beach and is used primarily by locals. The beach is lined with small restaurants and shops. There we ran into our friends, Ian and Joy, from s/v Reberth and tried their recommendation for the best place for mussells. It did not disappoint! Brendan and Pete accompanied Ian on a very challenging 3 hour hike over to Anse Dufour that included 20-30 degree rocky trails up and down, and then similar inclination roads getting back. Alex and I opted to hang out on the boat and relax.

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Rainbow over Grande Anse

Dominica

Soon after the kids’ visits were over we bid “au revoir” to Martinique (my French was improving ever so slightly) and headed for Dominica. The two islands could not be more different. Dominica primarily promotes eco-tourism. We once again met up with old friends and met some new ones. We reconnected with s/v Brilliant, Nancy Lu, Sea Frog and Profasea in Rosseau, the capitol.

On the way to Dominica we got an escort from a pod of dolphins.

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We became very active in Dominica with snorkel trips and hikes. Pete went along with our friends on two different snorkeling trips and observed thriving reefs and fish populations. During the first snorkel trip he also saw an area known as Champagne, for the bubbles coming from the rocks/coral surfaces. The bubbles were from gases associated with volcanic activity on the island. I had come down with a chest cold and didn’t want to snorkel with the cough I had.

We also arranged for a tour/hike with one of the local guides, Octavius (aka Sea Cat). First, we drove into the rain forest for the hike to Middleham Falls, which is a 275 foot waterfall. The hike was quite challenging but worth it once we reached the waterfall. Along the way Sea Cat pointed out various plants and their purposes in local cultures. He even found wild raspberries which were a nice treat. At the end of the hike he found some sugar cane, peeled it and squeezed lime juice on it as a treat for all of us.

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Another stop that day was Trafalgar Falls which are actually twin waterfalls. They are referred to as Papa and Mama. Part way up the Papa fall is a hot spring. Sea Cat led some of the braver souls (Pete included) climbing up the boulders to soak in the pool created by hot water escaping through the rocks. Sea Cat, Carl and Pete climbed to the top pool of the water fall to experience the falling water directly.

Mama
Mama
Papa
Papa
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Dominica has a large number of volcanoes – 11, of which 8 are active and being monitored. As a result there are a number of different activities for hikers – boiling lake, sulfur springs, hot water pools, etc. Next visit we’ll explore more of these geothermal areas.

The island has a series of 14 hiking trails called the Waitukubuli trail. During our stay we managed to hike portions of a few segments while searching for waterfalls, elusive parrots, and rain forest vegetation. The hikers guide indicates the south to north trail can be completed in two weeks. Hmm, maybe in the future says Pete.

While we were in our dinghy in Roseau we noticed a boat with the hailing port of Virginia Beach so we had to stop and introduce ourselves. We met Raleigh and Cindy on s/v Cinderella on their brand new Antares catamaran. They had just taken delivery of it in St. Lucia and along with their crew member Marco are working their way north through the island chain to bring her back to the states. Our group of boats was getting ready to move further north to Portsmouth, so we invited them to join us.

Portsmouth has an organized group to support the cruising community – Portsmouth Association of Yacht Services or PAYS. They provide moorings, security, transportation to customs, tours and best of all is their Sunday night beach barbeque. Almost everyone in the anchorage comes in for all you can eat grilled chicken and fish, side dishes and rum punch. When dinner is over, they push back the tables and the dancing begins.

Out first trek was a short walk from Portsmouth to Fort Shirley, formerly a British fort. The local government is working to restore the buildings and preserve the history with the support of the EU. It’s a beautiful spot and likely offered a good defense of the port. A little American history – this port was the first landing, on 24 March 1607, on the trip of the Godspeed expedition from England, to Jamestown, Virginia.

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We had a wonderful guide for our tours out of Portsmouth, Alec. He has a wealth of knowledge about the island’s history and the local plants and their many purposes for bush medicine. Our first tour with Alec was to Milton Falls and Syndicate Nature Trail. Both were nice hikes. The Syndicate Nature Trail is an area known as a parrot habitat. We did see parrots flying overhead but I wasn’t fast enough with the camera.

Alec
Alec
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The next day we took a full day tour of mostly the north and eastern coasts. The tour included the ruins of the Hampstead Estate; a small chocolate “factory”;  an area overlooking the Atlantic called Red Rock; and the Kalinago Reservation.

The Hampstead Estate is now in ruins but was once a thriving sugar cane plantation and rum distillery.

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Dominca is also where Pirates of the Caribbean 2 was filmed. The scene involving the large wheel that the characters were rolling in down hill while sword fighting was filmed in the area of the estate. In fact, the wheel was patterned from the water-wheel in the picture below. Alec, who was Depp’s driver during the filming, pointed to the area where the actual filmed wheel was left. Of course if is heavily overgrown now.

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We visited the Pointe Baptiste Estate Chocolate Factory. We got to see every step in how the chocolate is made from cracking open the pods, sun drying the beans, roasting, and processing. The best part was the sampling at the end of the tour. Of course, we had to buy some too!

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Red Rock is lava rock formation on the eastern side of Dominica. The rock is porous and appears white until water is poured on it and it turns red. The views of the Atlantic Ocean are spectacular.

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The last part of the day was a tour of the Kalinago Reservation. The Kalinago are the indigenous people of the the Carribean islands, also known as Caribs. On most of the other islands they were virtually wiped out after the Europeans came. Legend has it that they were able to hide in the mountains and survive to this day. When the island was under British control they were granted a territory on the Atlantic side of the island. Today, they are working hard to preserve their heritage.

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Sign under a bridge

We are now in Iles des Saintes, which is part of Guadeloupe, another French Department. We’re already enjoying the baguettes and wonderful French cooking.

Stay tuned and stay in touch!

 

 

 

 

 

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Sailing the Windward Islands

17 Sunday Apr 2016

Posted by krdavenport in Uncategorized

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

Delphinus, Grenada, Grenadines, Martinique, Sailing, St. Lucia, St. Vincent, Tobago Cays

20160318_181536After leaving St. Lucia we sailed north to Martinique and anchored near the towns of St. Anne and Marin. St. Anne is a quaint little town with a market where we found locally grown fresh produce and fish. Of course, like in all the French towns we’ve visited, we found the local patisserie where we could get our daily fix of fresh baked baquettes and pain au chocolat – yummy!

While in St. Anne we also caught up with our friends Rick and Helen from s/v Symmetry III. Rick arranged to rent a car one day and the four of us explored the interior of Martinique. The first thing we noticed was the very modern highway system throughout the island (as compared to the narrow, often crumbling, roads on most of the other islands we’ve visited).

Schoelcher Library

Schoelcher Library

St. Louis Cathedral

St. Louis Cathedral

We found our way to Fort de France, the capital city, on the west coast. It was quite a mix of old and new in terms of architecture and infrastructure. We visited the Schoelcher Library, which is still in operation. The building was built in France, disassembled and shipped to Martinique where it was then reassembled. The structure of the building was very interesting and it was easy to see how it was put together. There were many books that were probably as old as the building. We also explored the St. Louis Cathedral which was undergoing renovations but still quite beautiful and in the tradition of European cathedrals. Later when walking around the city Helen and I found a small fabric store and purchased a few cuts of fabric each.

Sugar Cane

Sugar Cane

Bananas

Bananas

From Fort de France we wound our way through the interior of the island to reach the east coast. We passed acre after acre of sugar cane and banana fields. After lunch at a little seaside fishing town we found the Habitation Clément, an old sugar cane plantation which still produces rum. Much of the grounds have been converted to a botanical and sculpture garden.  After touring the gardens and the old manufacturing facility we found ourselves in the tasting room with a couple of dozen different rums to try (and of course purchase).  We tried a drink of white rum, cane syrup and crushed lime – very refreshing!

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Rum Barrels

The next day Pete and Rick took a two-hour bicycle ride through the town of St. Anne. They came back soaked from a rain shower, but feeling good anyhow.

Mount Pelée

Mount Pelée

Theater Ruins

Theater Ruins

We sailed further north up the coast of Martinique to St. Pierre. St. Pierre was rich in history as it had been the capital of Martinique until it was destroyed by the eruption of Mount Pelée in 1902. Approximately 30,000 people were killed within moments due to the super heated gas cloud that settled over the town. The town has since been rebuilt but some of the ruins have been left intact, including the jail (where the lone survivor was found) and a theater. They’ve created a “volcanology” museum with displays of some items found in the ruins afterward. Picture a box of nails with the box burned away and the nails melted together. The beaches we saw here were all black sand due to the volcanic rocks.

Market

Market

Le Tamaya

Le Tamaya

Today it is a thriving community with a large open air market where one can find locally grown produce, fresh fish and arts & crafts. There are many shops and restaurants on the waterfront. We had a delightful meal at Le Tamaya, a small French restaurant owned and operated by a French couple who had cruised the Med and Caribbean for many years.

Moving south again we returned to Marin (Cul-de-sac du Marin) for a few days to wait out a weather system and have our refrigerator thermostat replaced. It was just working too hard and drawing too much power to keep it cool, so now our batteries are keeping their charges for longer. Since we would be leaving Martinique soon (and French territories) we stocked up on French wines, cheeses and sausages. For about 5 euros a bottle we found some great wines which would probably cost $20 to $30 back in the states.

IMG_20160325_173315069Next we made a brief stop at Grand Anse D’Arlet, which is a beautiful little cove with sandy beaches all along the shore line. It seemed to be a popular spot for locals to spend the day on the beach and eat & drink at the small restaurants along the beach. At about 5:00 p.m. the beach and restaurants all began to empty, leaving just the sailboats at anchor in the harbour.

Gregory

Gregory

On April 1 we left Martinique and headed back to Rodney Bay, St. Lucia for a few days before we began our trek south. We picked up some boat parts, celebrated our 33rd wedding anniversary with grilled salmon on Delphinus, and just relaxed. We also caught up with Gregory again and I finally remembered to take a picture. Gregory brings his small boat, loaded with produce, around to all the boats in the harbor. His prices are reasonable and the quality of produce is great. He’s told us most of it is from his mother’s garden. We look forward to his visits every day and have purchased limes, fresh herbs, mangoes, lettuce, tomatoes, papaya, and more from him.

Admirality Bay

Admirality Bay

Our next stop is Bequia (pronounced bekway) which is part of the country St. Vincent and Grenadines. We bypassed the main island of St. Vincent because of recent reports of crime against cruisers. We anchored in Admirality Bay, which has a very nice waterfront area, complete with newly reconstructed beach walkway. The town, like so many others we’ve visited, has a thriving open air market for produce and fresh fish, as well as local crafts. The people here were very friendly and helpful.

Baby Turtles

Baby Turtles

One day we hired a taxi to give us a tour of the island. We’ve found this is great way to see more than the anchorage and learn a bit more about the history and culture of the island. Our tour included stops at an old fort, a turtle sanctuary and a maritime museum. The turtle sanctuary rescues baby turtles and raises them until they are about five years old before releasing them back in the wild. They also had several adult turtles which were injured and may not survive in the wild. We enjoyed our time at the Maritime Museum where Lawson Sargeant gave us a tour through his collection of scale models of large ships, including photos of when he presented one of his models to Queen Elizabeth. He did not allow photos inside the building, but was happy to pose in the doorway!

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Lawson Sargeant

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DSCN2039DSCN2038Our next stop further south down the island chain was Tobago Cays. The cays are surrounded by a large reef called Horseshoe Reef that protects the boats moored there. The lagoon is a protected area and full of lots of sea life, including turtles. Upon arrival we were greeted by Kojak on his boat. He helped us tie up to a mooring ball and invited us to his beach barbecue for dinner that night. For a reasonable price we had a whole grilled lobster, grilled potatoes, salad, plantains and banana cake, plus rum punch and cold beer. Kojak, his wife and son cooked and served the delicious meal.

20160411_121752We finished out our visit to St. Vincent and the Grenadines with an overnight stop at Union Island. Our prime task here was to complete the customs check-out from St Vincent. After completing this task we walked throughout the town, bought some produce from the local market and had lunch at the Big City Grill. There is a small airport near the anchorage and when the planes come in for a landing they go right over the town – so close that it seems you can touch them! I never had the camera ready at the right time.

We’ve now arrived in Grenada where we will leave Delphinus for the hurricane season, but more on that in my next post.

Stay tuned and stay in touch!

 

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Leeward Islands and St. Lucia

17 Thursday Mar 2016

Posted by krdavenport in Uncategorized

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

Antigua, Delphinus, Des Saintes, Dominica, Guadeloupe, Martinique, Sailing, St. Barths, St. Lucia

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It has been quite a while since I’ve written and this is a pretty long post. We’ve stayed busy with guests and are finding unlimited WiFi (needed to upload photos) not as readily available the further south we move in the island chain. Since my last post we’ve visited seven islands, each one a separate country (St. Barths, Antigua, Guadeloupe, Iles des Saintes, Dominica, St. Lucia and Martinique). We’ve been switching currencies from Euros to Eastern Caribbean Dollars and back again. As we’ve learned a little history of each island, most have changed from French to British control and back again several times throughout their histories. Some are now independent countries (Antigua, Dominica, and St Lucia), while the others are departments of France (St. Barths, Guadeloupe, Saintes, and Martinique).

Mega Yachts

Mega Yachts

View from Fort

View from Fort

We spent a few days in St. Barthelemy (St. Barths), which is quite the playground for the rich. We anchored in the harbour off Gustavia and took a hike up to Fort Gustav overlooking the harbour. The views were spectacular! The yachts, both motor and sail, lining the waterfront were huge, measured in the hundreds of feet. We were especially dwarfed going past them in our dinghy. The waterfront is lined with high end shops (i.e. Hermes, Tiffany, etc.)

DSCN1706Our next stop was Antigua which required an overnight crossing. We had waves on the nose most of the time which made it a bit uncomfortable, although we made it safe and sound into Jolly Harbour about 0730. Antigua is an English speaking island, which made communications easier for us. We met fellow Virginians, Neil and Shawn, on S/V Escapade in the mooring field and enjoyed a meal with them at a local pizzeria. They are in their third year of cruising through the Caribbean and had great information to share. The next night they showed us the way to Jolly Beach where we watched a beautiful sunset while enjoying drinks on the beach.

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Doris & Dad

DSCN1719 My Dad and his friend Doris joined us for several days aboard Delphinus. We made the most of our time with them, starting with a helicopter tour of the island. The helicopter ride was a first for Dad, Doris and I, and was exciting. The pilot took us over the marina where Delphinus was docked and many other highlights of the island.  We passed some sailboats practicing for the upcoming Caribbean 600 race. We finished the day with dinner and drinks on Jolly Beach.

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Delphinus at Dock

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Race Practice

 

 

 

 

 

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Steel Drum Band

We moved Delphinus to Falmouth Harbour, another place filled with mega yachts. Here there were more sailing yachts than motor yachts. We took advantage of the Sunday night barbecue at Shirley Heights, a high point on this end of the island and a great place to watch the sunset. We were entertained for three hours with non-stop playing by a local steel drum band, followed by a reggae band. Both bands played with incredible energy and talent.

 

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Nelson’s Dockyard

Race Start

Race Start

The next day we walked to English Harbour and Nelson’s Dockyard. We arrived in time to climb to Fort Berkley Point and watch the start of the Caribbean 600 race. This is a 600 mile sailing race with about 100 boats participating, in several different classes. The fastest boats (triamarans) finished the race in about 30 hours, while the rest of the fleet took three to four days to complete the course. We finished off the day exploring the exhibits at Nelson’s Boatyard and admiring the yachts.

20160224_180855Too soon it was time for Dad & Doris to depart and for us make our way to our next stop, Guadeloupe. We anchored off of Deshaies (pronounced day hay) for a few days. Guadeloupe is another French island and we’ve found that the further south we move through the island chain the fewer French islanders speak English, making communication a bit more challenging. We have the basic greetings down (i.e. bonjour, au revoir, etc.) and can usually order in restaurants, but have found that understanding the locals is still a big challenge.

DSCN1828The highlight of our stay in Guadeloupe was the visit to the Jardin Botanique (Botanical Garden). They maintain a very large collection of tropical plants from around the world. Although the signs were only in French, we could at least tell where the plants were from originally. There was an enclosed area with beautiful, brightly colored parrots who would land on you if they thought you had food for them. So many of the colors in the garden and on the birds were so brilliant that they appeared to be almost artificial.

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Next we made a brief stop at Terre D’en Haut, Iles des Saintes (The Saintes). Pete wanted to hike to the top to visit Fort Napoleon and I opted to “hike” through the town and all the little boutiques. We each had a good time and met for lunch at a nice little waterfront restaurant.

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20160229_174429We spent the next couple of days in Dominica. Dominica is an independent country today which was alternately controlled by the French and English throughout its history. Here is where we met our first “boat boys.” These young men approach your boat as you enter the harbour to help you find a mooring ball and then offer any other services they have available. The “boat boys” in Dominica are an organized, professional group of men in a group called PAYS. They provide security in the anchorage and on the dinghy docks, in addition to helping with clearance, arranging tours and other local activities.

We were approached by Maverick who introduced himself and led us to a mooring ball and then offered to take Pete to shore to clear in. Maverick also told us about the barbecue that evening on the beach, organized by PAYS. He obtained tickets for us and then arranged for the Indian River Tour the next morning. The beach party was great with unlimited grilled fish, chicken, ribs and rum punch, followed by dancing. All for just $20 each.

Indian River

Indian River

The next morning Maverick picked us up from Delphinus and took us to meet our tour guide, James “007” Bond, at the mouth of the Indian River.  James was a wealth of local information and quite entertaining as well. We had another family on the tour with us who were from France. James switched easily between French and English. He pointed out wildlife, native plants and even Calypso’s house (from Pirates of the Caribbean). The midpoint of the tour is where the river becomes too shallow to continue and there just happens to be the Jungle Bar for a break from the tour.

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We didn’t have the time to fully explore Dominica like we would have liked to and plan to spend more time here when we return next year. It is probably the most undeveloped island of those we’ve visited so far and the locals seem to want it that way.

DSCN1915Our next island stop was St. Lucia to meet our daughter Colleen and her boyfriend Brendan. A bonus was catching up with our good friends, Rick and Helen of S/V Symmetry III.

After meeting Colleen and Brendan at Vieux Forte which is near the airport, we sailed back to Rodney Bay. The shoreline of Rodney Bay is lined with resorts and is a popular anchorage. We added our paddle boards to all the other recreational vessels (jet skis, Hobie cats) in the bay.

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1044828_10153432316626088_4299394316848690090_nFrom Rodney Bay, we sailed down the west coast to Marigot Bay. There, if you pick up a mooring ball owned by the marina, you have access to the amenities of marina and the neighboring resort. The mooring field was very crowded and busy with local boat traffic. We took advantage of the resort pool for a relaxing afternoon. That evening we all saw our first green flash! Sorry – no pictures.

Pitons

Petit Piton

The next day we sailed further down the coast to the Pitons (Petit and Gros). The Pitons are two distinctive peaks next to each other and separated by a small bay. This is part of a national park and no anchoring is allowed. We were greeted by a boat with three young men onboard as we entered the bay who guided us to a mooring ball. Here the “boat boys” are younger and more aggressive in wanting to sell us services. After paying them for their “help” with the mooring ball and repeatedly refusing any other help they reluctantly left us alone. We were able to snorkel near the Sugar Bay Resort at the head of the bay, and saw quite a lot of different sea life. We all saw another green flash at sunset that night – two in a row!

We traveled next to Soufriere where we arranged a tour of some of the sites away from the coast. We were met at the dinghy dock by McGavin who drove us to Diamond Botanical Gardens, Maho Falls and Morne Coubaril Estate.

DSCN1948At Diamond Botanical Gardens we were met by a tour guide who explained the plants and agriculture of the island while leading us to the waterfall. The colors behind the falls are the result of the many minerals in the water and are said to change daily. The falls are a mix of fresh spring water that flows through volcanic rock. No swimming allowed here.

DSCN1960Maho Falls allows swimming in the pool beneath the falls and appeared to be a popular tourist destination based on the number of buses and cabs there. Since this is also spring water it was quite chilly.

10385414_10153432326446088_7279699921009361920_nOur next stop of the day was the Morne Coubaril Estate to go zip lining through the rain forest – probably one of the most exciting adventures of our time on St. Lucia. Sheldon and Dalton were our guides and were very good at their jobs. Now I have a pretty strong fear of heights but decided to try this since Pete, Colleen and Brendan were so enthusiastic. At the first line I couldn’t bring myself to step off the platform and asked Sheldon to just push me. Being the professional that he is, he refused to push me but did offer to ride with me in tandem. That worked and eventually I got up the nerve to try a couple of the lines alone. I think it took about an hour for my heart rate to return to normal after we finished. We had fantastic views from the tree tops in the rain forest, which I don’t think we would have seen otherwise.

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As I write this, Colleen and Brendan have returned home and we have moved on to Martinique. More on Martinique in my next post.

Stay tuned and stay in touch!

 

 

 

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